So it has taken me a couple weeks to readjust back to American life, which is why I haven't posted since I got back. Sorry.
The last day in Afghanistan was a bit of a whirl-wind. We were able to go visit the kids at the Sozo School in Kabul. These are street kids that go to school in the mornings and are fed lunch and then they will head out into the streets to beg for money to help support their families. In Kabul you'll see hundreds of these kids everyday, sitting outside shops or knocking on your window, and it breaks your heart. But to know that 160 of them are getting an education, so that their kids won't have to beg that way, will also give you hope.
After lunch it was packing and then heading out to the airport.
Leaving Afghanistan is always bitter-sweet. Just like any lengthy trip, I long for my own bed and the comforts of home. But I also want to stay and spend more time with the people that I have come to love. It is a tug-o-war on my heart.
And now that I've been home for a couple weeks, I can tell you that I miss Afghanistan dearly. I miss my breakfasts with long-term team members of naan, Nutella and Happy Cow cheese. I miss the beautiful mountains. I miss the children, whose faces light up when they meet you, and who instantly invite you into their lives. I miss the Sozo staff, who work so hard to make Afghanistan better. I miss the crazy driving. I miss it all.
But I also live with the hope that one day I will return. And I will get to see the faces of the children and women that I met. That I will get to see the difference that Sozo is making. That I will get to see this amazing country full of amazing people continue to grow, and that they will thrive in the face of adversity and struggle. One day.
Thank you all for your love and support. You may not realize it, but you touched lives. You helped give hope and encouragement to women in a place where they rarely receive such gifts. I'm sure if they had the opportunity to meet you, they would hug you and say, "Tashakor" which means thank you.
Saturday, November 20, 2010
Wednesday, November 3, 2010
A land of contradiction
"She is everything. I'm talking about Hannah Montana" - Wakil
Today I stepped into a land of contradiction. Today we got the opportunity to go visit the women's detention center. No other team has ever gone, so we had no idea what to expect. We knew what American jails were like, and could only imagine what this place would be like. There was some fear and trepidation, but we walked beyond the stone walls and through the gate and could not have been more surprised.
When I met the woman who runs the detention center I knew that anything I expected inside would be wrong. She was not what I expected. She didn't wear a head scarf and immediately reached out to shake Wakil's hand, two things that make her incredibly distinctive in a country where women are always covered and never touch a man in public.
After a brief tour we went into an office to ask questions and learn more about the detention center. We immediately resonated with the woman who runs the place. She is all about giving respect and dignity back to women, even women who have committed crimes. She gives an incredible amount of respect to the women who are jailed here, and you can tell that they also respect and care about her. This woman, employed by the Afghan government, defying the rules of the land.
The biggest shock was how much freedom women in jail have compared to those that live in the city. In prison they are free to walk about as they please. They are free to choose who they room with. They are free to get an education. These are things that we hope for for all Afghan women. Who knew that I would have to walk behind walls meant to punish to find such freedom.
Today I stepped into a land of contradiction. Today we got the opportunity to go visit the women's detention center. No other team has ever gone, so we had no idea what to expect. We knew what American jails were like, and could only imagine what this place would be like. There was some fear and trepidation, but we walked beyond the stone walls and through the gate and could not have been more surprised.
When I met the woman who runs the detention center I knew that anything I expected inside would be wrong. She was not what I expected. She didn't wear a head scarf and immediately reached out to shake Wakil's hand, two things that make her incredibly distinctive in a country where women are always covered and never touch a man in public.
After a brief tour we went into an office to ask questions and learn more about the detention center. We immediately resonated with the woman who runs the place. She is all about giving respect and dignity back to women, even women who have committed crimes. She gives an incredible amount of respect to the women who are jailed here, and you can tell that they also respect and care about her. This woman, employed by the Afghan government, defying the rules of the land.
The biggest shock was how much freedom women in jail have compared to those that live in the city. In prison they are free to walk about as they please. They are free to choose who they room with. They are free to get an education. These are things that we hope for for all Afghan women. Who knew that I would have to walk behind walls meant to punish to find such freedom.
Tuesday, November 2, 2010
Unexpected
"Can you translate 'Scream like a little girl'?" - Mary to one of our translators upon getting into a boat with all the male drivers.
What an unexpected day. We knew that we would be taking all the ladies of Sozo staff out to a lake for lunch, but had no idea what to expect.
We loaded 35 women into 5 vans, and headed out from the guest house. We had just passed the grassless Kabul Golf Course, and suddenly this pristine, blue lake appeared. Upon entering the resort we were greeted to lush trees and grass and a stunning view of the lake and mountains. Most of these women had never been to this beautiful resort. They immediately began walking around and wanting their picture taken in the beautiful scenery. After some tea and cookies we went for some boat rides. None of these women had ever been on a boat, and many had no idea what to expect. They entered the boat with some trepidation, but as soon as we left shore the giggles and water fights began. To hear the squeals of laughter and joy was one of the best noises I have ever heard.
After the boat rides we sat down for a lunch of kabob and rice. The food was incredible as usual, but the conversation was the best part of lunch. Conversation flowed smoothly as we discussed life, relationships and chocolate. At the end of our time together one of the doctors told us that she had a great day, and will call this day "laughing day."
To say that this day was unexpected is an understatement. To find this resort in the middle of a desert, to find so much peace in the midst of calm. To connect and laugh and fall in love with women I didn't know existed a week ago. To get to sit with a principal and her daughter on their first boat ride and see their delight. To watch women of Afghanistan stand up and be proud of who they are and what they have accomplished. It was all so very unexpected.
What an unexpected day. We knew that we would be taking all the ladies of Sozo staff out to a lake for lunch, but had no idea what to expect.
We loaded 35 women into 5 vans, and headed out from the guest house. We had just passed the grassless Kabul Golf Course, and suddenly this pristine, blue lake appeared. Upon entering the resort we were greeted to lush trees and grass and a stunning view of the lake and mountains. Most of these women had never been to this beautiful resort. They immediately began walking around and wanting their picture taken in the beautiful scenery. After some tea and cookies we went for some boat rides. None of these women had ever been on a boat, and many had no idea what to expect. They entered the boat with some trepidation, but as soon as we left shore the giggles and water fights began. To hear the squeals of laughter and joy was one of the best noises I have ever heard.
After the boat rides we sat down for a lunch of kabob and rice. The food was incredible as usual, but the conversation was the best part of lunch. Conversation flowed smoothly as we discussed life, relationships and chocolate. At the end of our time together one of the doctors told us that she had a great day, and will call this day "laughing day."
To say that this day was unexpected is an understatement. To find this resort in the middle of a desert, to find so much peace in the midst of calm. To connect and laugh and fall in love with women I didn't know existed a week ago. To get to sit with a principal and her daughter on their first boat ride and see their delight. To watch women of Afghanistan stand up and be proud of who they are and what they have accomplished. It was all so very unexpected.
Monday, November 1, 2010
Small Steps
"Well, that was a massive amount of meat." - Karen, after eating at The Grill
Heading out to Barek Aub this morning I was full of anticipation and hope. Today we got to sit with the Community Health Workers (CHW) and the Community Development Educators (CDE). These women are a very large part of why this community is thriving, and it was an honor to spend the morning with them. Each of them goes into their little section of the community and teaches others how to live a healthy, productive lives, and then those people teach others and the entire community becomes a strong, healthy place. Mary and Katy were able to meet with them two years ago, and many of the women remembered them and were so excited to see them again. As a team we had all been praying for many of these women before we got here, so to be able to sit in the room and see familiar faces allowed all of us to make a deep connection with them.
We then headed out to another widow's home, where we were able to sit with 7 women. While we were there, Wakil was approached by another widow and she was hoping to show him her home. As he turned the corner to see her house, he realized that she was still living in a tent in the midst of a group of homes, and his heart broke. She lives there with 6 children and it is now November and will be getting very cold in the coming weeks. Wakil ordered her a new home, on the spot, to be built in the next 20 days so that she will have a roof and walls for the winter.
The Sozo staff are amazing people that have incredibly large hearts. They all have a desire to see positive change in Afghanistan, and they all know that it starts with simple steps. Things as small as making sure that a widow and her 6 children make it through the winter. Making sure that a small child has the chance to get a basic education and food before he begs on the streets. Through teaching a young woman to boil her water before drinking it so that her family doesn't get sick. By ensuring that a local clinic has basic medical supplies to treat infections. Through each of these small steps they will change Afghanistan. What an honor to be part of it all.
Heading out to Barek Aub this morning I was full of anticipation and hope. Today we got to sit with the Community Health Workers (CHW) and the Community Development Educators (CDE). These women are a very large part of why this community is thriving, and it was an honor to spend the morning with them. Each of them goes into their little section of the community and teaches others how to live a healthy, productive lives, and then those people teach others and the entire community becomes a strong, healthy place. Mary and Katy were able to meet with them two years ago, and many of the women remembered them and were so excited to see them again. As a team we had all been praying for many of these women before we got here, so to be able to sit in the room and see familiar faces allowed all of us to make a deep connection with them.
We then headed out to another widow's home, where we were able to sit with 7 women. While we were there, Wakil was approached by another widow and she was hoping to show him her home. As he turned the corner to see her house, he realized that she was still living in a tent in the midst of a group of homes, and his heart broke. She lives there with 6 children and it is now November and will be getting very cold in the coming weeks. Wakil ordered her a new home, on the spot, to be built in the next 20 days so that she will have a roof and walls for the winter.
The Sozo staff are amazing people that have incredibly large hearts. They all have a desire to see positive change in Afghanistan, and they all know that it starts with simple steps. Things as small as making sure that a widow and her 6 children make it through the winter. Making sure that a small child has the chance to get a basic education and food before he begs on the streets. Through teaching a young woman to boil her water before drinking it so that her family doesn't get sick. By ensuring that a local clinic has basic medical supplies to treat infections. Through each of these small steps they will change Afghanistan. What an honor to be part of it all.
Sunday, October 31, 2010
How do you express that much joy?
Each night I go to bed thinking that there is no way that tomorrow could possibly be better than today. And each day I am proved wrong.
Today we were able to take our first trip out to Barek Aub. Barek Aub is a small town north of Kabul that Sozo has been involved with since it was a tent of 300 families in a field. Today they have a water system, a school, a clinic and many homes. As we drove out to Barek Aub, I was struck by how much has changed on the way there. 18 months ago it was fairly barren between Kabul and Barek Aub, but now there are many new side roads and buildings along the way. We saw a lot of construction and even surveyors getting measurements for future construction. When we pulled into Barek Aub I was amazed at how much had changed. There were so many more homes and actual roads and a playground. But still that initial tent stood in the middle of town. It is a reminder of where they started, and when you look around it you can see how far they have come.
A couple of years ago Sozo started constructing homes for widows in Barek Aub, and we were able to go visit three of those homes and spend time with 10 different widows. The experience in the first home will stay with me forever.
As we walked in we were all struck by the beauty of the home. Not only is it constructed amazingly well, but it was truly a home. It had beautiful walls painted in two shades of pink, with some glitter thrown in. The carpets on the floor were beautiful and the toshacks were all laid out on the floor. And then we met the young woman who lived there. Her name is Soma and she is 18. She is not a widow in the traditional sense, her mother died when she was a child and her father is disabled. She has two sisters, one who is 12 that lives with her and her father. And she is the woman of the house. And as she was pouring us tea, she told us how thankful she was to Sozo for giving her so much. As she continued pouring tea she began to pour our her soul to us and how she had felt so hopeless before but that this house and everything she has received has given her a hope for the future, and the tears began to pour from her eyes.
Being in that room and being able to hug Soma and her sister was overwhelming. But knowing that because of the work that Sozo is doing and the encouragement that we were able to give Soma today, will give her hope and that she may one day become the doctor that she dreams to be, there are no words for that. I will forever be grateful to be a small part of the transformation that is happening in this country.
"We have realized two things: everyone cries the same, and everyone laughs the same." - Mary
Today we were able to take our first trip out to Barek Aub. Barek Aub is a small town north of Kabul that Sozo has been involved with since it was a tent of 300 families in a field. Today they have a water system, a school, a clinic and many homes. As we drove out to Barek Aub, I was struck by how much has changed on the way there. 18 months ago it was fairly barren between Kabul and Barek Aub, but now there are many new side roads and buildings along the way. We saw a lot of construction and even surveyors getting measurements for future construction. When we pulled into Barek Aub I was amazed at how much had changed. There were so many more homes and actual roads and a playground. But still that initial tent stood in the middle of town. It is a reminder of where they started, and when you look around it you can see how far they have come.
A couple of years ago Sozo started constructing homes for widows in Barek Aub, and we were able to go visit three of those homes and spend time with 10 different widows. The experience in the first home will stay with me forever.
As we walked in we were all struck by the beauty of the home. Not only is it constructed amazingly well, but it was truly a home. It had beautiful walls painted in two shades of pink, with some glitter thrown in. The carpets on the floor were beautiful and the toshacks were all laid out on the floor. And then we met the young woman who lived there. Her name is Soma and she is 18. She is not a widow in the traditional sense, her mother died when she was a child and her father is disabled. She has two sisters, one who is 12 that lives with her and her father. And she is the woman of the house. And as she was pouring us tea, she told us how thankful she was to Sozo for giving her so much. As she continued pouring tea she began to pour our her soul to us and how she had felt so hopeless before but that this house and everything she has received has given her a hope for the future, and the tears began to pour from her eyes.
Being in that room and being able to hug Soma and her sister was overwhelming. But knowing that because of the work that Sozo is doing and the encouragement that we were able to give Soma today, will give her hope and that she may one day become the doctor that she dreams to be, there are no words for that. I will forever be grateful to be a small part of the transformation that is happening in this country.
"We have realized two things: everyone cries the same, and everyone laughs the same." - Mary
Saturday, October 30, 2010
Fly swatters and chocolate
Today was an amazing day. The highlights happened before lunch and after dinner. After breakfast we were able to begin sorting items that we had brought and that Sozo had been given that we will give to some of the women here. They are both everyday items like lotion, soap, and shampoo as well as little gifts like hand knitted hats and scarves.
In the middle of the sorting, the school teachers from the Sozo School in Kabul came to visit. The Sozo School is a school that teaches kids that have to work to help support their families, by begging or selling little trinkets in the street. If they don't work, there is a good chance that many of their families will not eat. Because of the need for them to work, most of them have not been educated, so the Sozo School tries to fill the gap. There are about 170 kids there now, and each class may have kids that are between the ages of 6 and 15, but they are all at the same ability level. The teachers are all amazing women who have a passion to helping children who may not have any other chance to learn how to read or write. They hope to give these children a better future. We enjoyed some time sitting and talking and getting to know one another. The wonderful thing about women is that no matter where we live we are all the same. We all understand the fights that happen between sisters, we all understand family and struggle to balance it all. It becomes so easy to connect with these women when you realize that they are just like you, they just live somewhere else.
The rest of the afternoon was spent bagging all of the stuff we had sorted in the morning. After dinner we all went into the living room to spend some time relaxing. Wakil came and joined us, and in no time had us all laughing. At one point I was laughing so hard that I began crying. We sat around laughing and eating chocolate and having fun. It was a wonderful ending to an amazing day.
"I pray that Afghanistan will no longer need guns... just fly swatters and chocolate" - Wakil
In the middle of the sorting, the school teachers from the Sozo School in Kabul came to visit. The Sozo School is a school that teaches kids that have to work to help support their families, by begging or selling little trinkets in the street. If they don't work, there is a good chance that many of their families will not eat. Because of the need for them to work, most of them have not been educated, so the Sozo School tries to fill the gap. There are about 170 kids there now, and each class may have kids that are between the ages of 6 and 15, but they are all at the same ability level. The teachers are all amazing women who have a passion to helping children who may not have any other chance to learn how to read or write. They hope to give these children a better future. We enjoyed some time sitting and talking and getting to know one another. The wonderful thing about women is that no matter where we live we are all the same. We all understand the fights that happen between sisters, we all understand family and struggle to balance it all. It becomes so easy to connect with these women when you realize that they are just like you, they just live somewhere else.
The rest of the afternoon was spent bagging all of the stuff we had sorted in the morning. After dinner we all went into the living room to spend some time relaxing. Wakil came and joined us, and in no time had us all laughing. At one point I was laughing so hard that I began crying. We sat around laughing and eating chocolate and having fun. It was a wonderful ending to an amazing day.
"I pray that Afghanistan will no longer need guns... just fly swatters and chocolate" - Wakil
Friday, October 29, 2010
Kites in Kabul
We made it safely! We had no travel problems and made it to the guest house in Kabul safe and sound and ready for a great breakfast Friday morning. After a wonderful morning of spending time with members of the long-term team and two wonderful meals, Wakil took us out for a city tour. Kabul is a beautiful city, full of unexpected sights.
Wakil first took us up to one of the many hills that overlook the city. Kabul is surrounded by mountains so there are many "foothills" within the city. The one had the tombs of the king and queen at the top. There were lots of children running around, and hundreds of boys and men flying kites. Kite flying is one of the national past times here, and it was outlawed by the Taliban when they were in power. It was wonderful to see so many kites in the air.
Then we went to the palace. The palace is one of the normal stops on the city tour, and was once a magnificent building. It was destroyed in the 70's during one of the civil wars, and now looks like this:
There were lots of kids running around and we inquired one of the guards as to where they had come from, and we found out that they were living there. The palace had recently been turned into a home for some Internally Displaced People (IDP's) from up north. There are 312 families living there, which is about 1500-1800 people. They have a well, and Unicef has put up tents where the children can go to school, but the building doesn't offer much protection from the elements. Wakil is currently working on ways to get them extra help.
When we found out that so many families were living there, it was a very sobering moment. Up until then we had had a fairly carefree day, but at that moment we were reminded that this is a country that is still at war, and that even if the fighting all ends today, the people who live here will face challenges for many years to come as they rebuild their country and their lives. But the hopeful part is that there are organizations like Sozo that can, and are, making a huge difference in the lives of Afghans. They are bringing hope to people who could easily be hopeless, and we get to be a small part of it.
Wakil first took us up to one of the many hills that overlook the city. Kabul is surrounded by mountains so there are many "foothills" within the city. The one had the tombs of the king and queen at the top. There were lots of children running around, and hundreds of boys and men flying kites. Kite flying is one of the national past times here, and it was outlawed by the Taliban when they were in power. It was wonderful to see so many kites in the air.
Then we went to the palace. The palace is one of the normal stops on the city tour, and was once a magnificent building. It was destroyed in the 70's during one of the civil wars, and now looks like this:
There were lots of kids running around and we inquired one of the guards as to where they had come from, and we found out that they were living there. The palace had recently been turned into a home for some Internally Displaced People (IDP's) from up north. There are 312 families living there, which is about 1500-1800 people. They have a well, and Unicef has put up tents where the children can go to school, but the building doesn't offer much protection from the elements. Wakil is currently working on ways to get them extra help.
When we found out that so many families were living there, it was a very sobering moment. Up until then we had had a fairly carefree day, but at that moment we were reminded that this is a country that is still at war, and that even if the fighting all ends today, the people who live here will face challenges for many years to come as they rebuild their country and their lives. But the hopeful part is that there are organizations like Sozo that can, and are, making a huge difference in the lives of Afghans. They are bringing hope to people who could easily be hopeless, and we get to be a small part of it.
Thursday, October 28, 2010
We're off!
Well, actually we were off about 24 hours ago, but this is the first chance I've had to sit down with internet connection. We made it from DIA to Washington DC and are now sitting in the departure lounge at the Dubai airport. We'll go check in for our flight to Kabul in about an hour and land in Afghanistan in about 7. Then the goal becomes staying awake.
So you know who all of us are, here's a picture of the team before we left DIA:
So you know who all of us are, here's a picture of the team before we left DIA:
From left to right they are: Amanda, me, Debbie, Kelly, Cathi, Mary, Karen, Katy, Deb and Cyndy.
Saturday, October 16, 2010
Purple, Yellow, Raspberry, Pink, Green, Gold, Blue
A couple weeks ago my team and I had our service day. It's a chance for the team to do serve locally and to spend more time getting to know each other. For our service day we got to paint the shed out at the community garden.
The community garden is on the outskirts of Lafayette, and people pay for a plot and all we ask is that they donate part of what they grow to a local food bank or to a family that is in need. The shed has been out there, and is completely usable, but needed a little love just to look better.
So one Saturday morning, after a stop at the local Starbucks, we all headed over in our painting clothes. We had visions of lots of color, and spent a good amount of time mixing paint. We didn't want to paint the whole thing one color, so I think we ended up with about 7. We painted each surface a different color and then we let one of the artists take over and design all the accents. And here's what we ended up with....
It's so bright and cheery, and we hope that the gardeners all enjoy it. But the best part of the day was laughing and playing with my team. They are amazing women and I am so excited to share this trip with them.
Friday, October 1, 2010
Fun and Games
So one of the goals that my team has while we're in Afghanistan is to honor women. Women are rarely, if ever, publicly thanked for all that they do, and we want them to know that what they are doing is making a difference. And that they are loved by people half-a-world away. So one of the things that we hope to do while over in Afghanistan is throw a party for some of the school teachers. We hope to have them over for a meal, give them gifts and enjoy an evening together. And this is where you come in...
We want to play a game with them, and we need ideas of what game to play. The game needs to be fairly simple. For example, one of the ideas that is floating around is Twister, because all we would need to do is learn 8 words (the four colors, hand, food, right, left) and it would be easy to explain.
So if you have any ideas of games that would be easy to teach, and uses relatively few words, let me know. Just leave a comment below.
And if you need a good laugh, just imagine 20 women in multiple layers of clothing, all trying desperately to get their left hand on blue....
We want to play a game with them, and we need ideas of what game to play. The game needs to be fairly simple. For example, one of the ideas that is floating around is Twister, because all we would need to do is learn 8 words (the four colors, hand, food, right, left) and it would be easy to explain.
So if you have any ideas of games that would be easy to teach, and uses relatively few words, let me know. Just leave a comment below.
And if you need a good laugh, just imagine 20 women in multiple layers of clothing, all trying desperately to get their left hand on blue....
Tuesday, September 21, 2010
Heading back...
So, I'm going back, but you probably already know that.
I get to go back to this amazing country that I fell in love with 18 months ago. I get to go back and see friends. I get to go back and see the faces of children that I have cried and prayed for. I get to go back.
Over the next 36 days I will post plans and thoughts and prayers. Then for 10 days I will take you along on an amazing adventure. This will be an incredible journey, and I hope you'll come along for the ride.
Come, be part of this crazy adventure called Life.
I get to go back to this amazing country that I fell in love with 18 months ago. I get to go back and see friends. I get to go back and see the faces of children that I have cried and prayed for. I get to go back.
Over the next 36 days I will post plans and thoughts and prayers. Then for 10 days I will take you along on an amazing adventure. This will be an incredible journey, and I hope you'll come along for the ride.
Come, be part of this crazy adventure called Life.
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