So it has taken me a couple weeks to readjust back to American life, which is why I haven't posted since I got back. Sorry.
The last day in Afghanistan was a bit of a whirl-wind. We were able to go visit the kids at the Sozo School in Kabul. These are street kids that go to school in the mornings and are fed lunch and then they will head out into the streets to beg for money to help support their families. In Kabul you'll see hundreds of these kids everyday, sitting outside shops or knocking on your window, and it breaks your heart. But to know that 160 of them are getting an education, so that their kids won't have to beg that way, will also give you hope.
After lunch it was packing and then heading out to the airport.
Leaving Afghanistan is always bitter-sweet. Just like any lengthy trip, I long for my own bed and the comforts of home. But I also want to stay and spend more time with the people that I have come to love. It is a tug-o-war on my heart.
And now that I've been home for a couple weeks, I can tell you that I miss Afghanistan dearly. I miss my breakfasts with long-term team members of naan, Nutella and Happy Cow cheese. I miss the beautiful mountains. I miss the children, whose faces light up when they meet you, and who instantly invite you into their lives. I miss the Sozo staff, who work so hard to make Afghanistan better. I miss the crazy driving. I miss it all.
But I also live with the hope that one day I will return. And I will get to see the faces of the children and women that I met. That I will get to see the difference that Sozo is making. That I will get to see this amazing country full of amazing people continue to grow, and that they will thrive in the face of adversity and struggle. One day.
Thank you all for your love and support. You may not realize it, but you touched lives. You helped give hope and encouragement to women in a place where they rarely receive such gifts. I'm sure if they had the opportunity to meet you, they would hug you and say, "Tashakor" which means thank you.
Saturday, November 20, 2010
Wednesday, November 3, 2010
A land of contradiction
"She is everything. I'm talking about Hannah Montana" - Wakil
Today I stepped into a land of contradiction. Today we got the opportunity to go visit the women's detention center. No other team has ever gone, so we had no idea what to expect. We knew what American jails were like, and could only imagine what this place would be like. There was some fear and trepidation, but we walked beyond the stone walls and through the gate and could not have been more surprised.
When I met the woman who runs the detention center I knew that anything I expected inside would be wrong. She was not what I expected. She didn't wear a head scarf and immediately reached out to shake Wakil's hand, two things that make her incredibly distinctive in a country where women are always covered and never touch a man in public.
After a brief tour we went into an office to ask questions and learn more about the detention center. We immediately resonated with the woman who runs the place. She is all about giving respect and dignity back to women, even women who have committed crimes. She gives an incredible amount of respect to the women who are jailed here, and you can tell that they also respect and care about her. This woman, employed by the Afghan government, defying the rules of the land.
The biggest shock was how much freedom women in jail have compared to those that live in the city. In prison they are free to walk about as they please. They are free to choose who they room with. They are free to get an education. These are things that we hope for for all Afghan women. Who knew that I would have to walk behind walls meant to punish to find such freedom.
Today I stepped into a land of contradiction. Today we got the opportunity to go visit the women's detention center. No other team has ever gone, so we had no idea what to expect. We knew what American jails were like, and could only imagine what this place would be like. There was some fear and trepidation, but we walked beyond the stone walls and through the gate and could not have been more surprised.
When I met the woman who runs the detention center I knew that anything I expected inside would be wrong. She was not what I expected. She didn't wear a head scarf and immediately reached out to shake Wakil's hand, two things that make her incredibly distinctive in a country where women are always covered and never touch a man in public.
After a brief tour we went into an office to ask questions and learn more about the detention center. We immediately resonated with the woman who runs the place. She is all about giving respect and dignity back to women, even women who have committed crimes. She gives an incredible amount of respect to the women who are jailed here, and you can tell that they also respect and care about her. This woman, employed by the Afghan government, defying the rules of the land.
The biggest shock was how much freedom women in jail have compared to those that live in the city. In prison they are free to walk about as they please. They are free to choose who they room with. They are free to get an education. These are things that we hope for for all Afghan women. Who knew that I would have to walk behind walls meant to punish to find such freedom.
Tuesday, November 2, 2010
Unexpected
"Can you translate 'Scream like a little girl'?" - Mary to one of our translators upon getting into a boat with all the male drivers.
What an unexpected day. We knew that we would be taking all the ladies of Sozo staff out to a lake for lunch, but had no idea what to expect.
We loaded 35 women into 5 vans, and headed out from the guest house. We had just passed the grassless Kabul Golf Course, and suddenly this pristine, blue lake appeared. Upon entering the resort we were greeted to lush trees and grass and a stunning view of the lake and mountains. Most of these women had never been to this beautiful resort. They immediately began walking around and wanting their picture taken in the beautiful scenery. After some tea and cookies we went for some boat rides. None of these women had ever been on a boat, and many had no idea what to expect. They entered the boat with some trepidation, but as soon as we left shore the giggles and water fights began. To hear the squeals of laughter and joy was one of the best noises I have ever heard.
After the boat rides we sat down for a lunch of kabob and rice. The food was incredible as usual, but the conversation was the best part of lunch. Conversation flowed smoothly as we discussed life, relationships and chocolate. At the end of our time together one of the doctors told us that she had a great day, and will call this day "laughing day."
To say that this day was unexpected is an understatement. To find this resort in the middle of a desert, to find so much peace in the midst of calm. To connect and laugh and fall in love with women I didn't know existed a week ago. To get to sit with a principal and her daughter on their first boat ride and see their delight. To watch women of Afghanistan stand up and be proud of who they are and what they have accomplished. It was all so very unexpected.
What an unexpected day. We knew that we would be taking all the ladies of Sozo staff out to a lake for lunch, but had no idea what to expect.
We loaded 35 women into 5 vans, and headed out from the guest house. We had just passed the grassless Kabul Golf Course, and suddenly this pristine, blue lake appeared. Upon entering the resort we were greeted to lush trees and grass and a stunning view of the lake and mountains. Most of these women had never been to this beautiful resort. They immediately began walking around and wanting their picture taken in the beautiful scenery. After some tea and cookies we went for some boat rides. None of these women had ever been on a boat, and many had no idea what to expect. They entered the boat with some trepidation, but as soon as we left shore the giggles and water fights began. To hear the squeals of laughter and joy was one of the best noises I have ever heard.
After the boat rides we sat down for a lunch of kabob and rice. The food was incredible as usual, but the conversation was the best part of lunch. Conversation flowed smoothly as we discussed life, relationships and chocolate. At the end of our time together one of the doctors told us that she had a great day, and will call this day "laughing day."
To say that this day was unexpected is an understatement. To find this resort in the middle of a desert, to find so much peace in the midst of calm. To connect and laugh and fall in love with women I didn't know existed a week ago. To get to sit with a principal and her daughter on their first boat ride and see their delight. To watch women of Afghanistan stand up and be proud of who they are and what they have accomplished. It was all so very unexpected.
Monday, November 1, 2010
Small Steps
"Well, that was a massive amount of meat." - Karen, after eating at The Grill
Heading out to Barek Aub this morning I was full of anticipation and hope. Today we got to sit with the Community Health Workers (CHW) and the Community Development Educators (CDE). These women are a very large part of why this community is thriving, and it was an honor to spend the morning with them. Each of them goes into their little section of the community and teaches others how to live a healthy, productive lives, and then those people teach others and the entire community becomes a strong, healthy place. Mary and Katy were able to meet with them two years ago, and many of the women remembered them and were so excited to see them again. As a team we had all been praying for many of these women before we got here, so to be able to sit in the room and see familiar faces allowed all of us to make a deep connection with them.
We then headed out to another widow's home, where we were able to sit with 7 women. While we were there, Wakil was approached by another widow and she was hoping to show him her home. As he turned the corner to see her house, he realized that she was still living in a tent in the midst of a group of homes, and his heart broke. She lives there with 6 children and it is now November and will be getting very cold in the coming weeks. Wakil ordered her a new home, on the spot, to be built in the next 20 days so that she will have a roof and walls for the winter.
The Sozo staff are amazing people that have incredibly large hearts. They all have a desire to see positive change in Afghanistan, and they all know that it starts with simple steps. Things as small as making sure that a widow and her 6 children make it through the winter. Making sure that a small child has the chance to get a basic education and food before he begs on the streets. Through teaching a young woman to boil her water before drinking it so that her family doesn't get sick. By ensuring that a local clinic has basic medical supplies to treat infections. Through each of these small steps they will change Afghanistan. What an honor to be part of it all.
Heading out to Barek Aub this morning I was full of anticipation and hope. Today we got to sit with the Community Health Workers (CHW) and the Community Development Educators (CDE). These women are a very large part of why this community is thriving, and it was an honor to spend the morning with them. Each of them goes into their little section of the community and teaches others how to live a healthy, productive lives, and then those people teach others and the entire community becomes a strong, healthy place. Mary and Katy were able to meet with them two years ago, and many of the women remembered them and were so excited to see them again. As a team we had all been praying for many of these women before we got here, so to be able to sit in the room and see familiar faces allowed all of us to make a deep connection with them.
We then headed out to another widow's home, where we were able to sit with 7 women. While we were there, Wakil was approached by another widow and she was hoping to show him her home. As he turned the corner to see her house, he realized that she was still living in a tent in the midst of a group of homes, and his heart broke. She lives there with 6 children and it is now November and will be getting very cold in the coming weeks. Wakil ordered her a new home, on the spot, to be built in the next 20 days so that she will have a roof and walls for the winter.
The Sozo staff are amazing people that have incredibly large hearts. They all have a desire to see positive change in Afghanistan, and they all know that it starts with simple steps. Things as small as making sure that a widow and her 6 children make it through the winter. Making sure that a small child has the chance to get a basic education and food before he begs on the streets. Through teaching a young woman to boil her water before drinking it so that her family doesn't get sick. By ensuring that a local clinic has basic medical supplies to treat infections. Through each of these small steps they will change Afghanistan. What an honor to be part of it all.
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